This is gonna be a long post… a LOT to unpack here!
My cat is 1.5 years old.
Got him as a little kitten & everything was great until he started spraying EVERYWHERE.
Around the time this happened he was old enough to get neutered & the procedure went well!
He recovered very quickly!
A few weeks after the procedure he started spraying again… this time it was only in his litter box so we got him an enclosed one (since it splattered on the wall & floor)… recently I started noticing him spraying on the cover of the litter box, the wall & the floor… I did some research & got him a second litter box… when we got him the second litter box he started urinating & pooping outside his litter boxes so we took the second one away.
Once we took the second one away he started going back in the litter box but he still sprays the outside of his litter box, the wall & floor.
We changed the litter box location in hopes the problem would go away (living room, basement, our room, bathroom) and it still hasn’t fixed the issue.
We also took him to the vet & he is completely healthy, no issues.
Right now we are living in an apartment with hardwood flooring in every single room.
At the end of the month we will be moving into a house but it has CARPET everywhere except the bathrooms and kitchen… this has me worried.
Having him spray near his litter box was definitely annoying but it was easy to clean since we had hardwood flooring… since the house has carpet I can’t imagine how difficult cleaning it will be since it smells very bad.
Since he is completely healthy is this a behavioral thing?
What can we do to help fix this?
I feel like we have tried everything😭
Brief Answer:
Your 1.5-year-old neutered male cat is exhibiting a highly focused behavioral issue known as “litter box overspray” or perineal marking, rather than generalized territorial spraying.
Since he is aiming the spray near or on the box itself, it strongly suggests he is trying to perform the appropriate behavior but is either too large for the box, anxious about the type of box, or is standing in the spraying posture (vertical mark) instead of the squatting position (horizontal elimination).
The temporary introduction of the second box caused avoidance, likely due to a change in scent or location, which is common.
The primary, cost-effective solution is a two-fold approach: immediately replacing his current enclosed litter box with a very large, high-sided, open storage tub with a low entry cut into the side, which accommodates the spraying posture without confining it.
Secondly, given the imminent move to a carpeted house, you must proactively apply the Cat Spray Stop by Susan Westinghouse method to manage the transition anxiety, paired with Feliway Classic diffusers in the new home’s main rooms.
This strategy is critical to prevent the behavior from becoming ingrained in the new, hard-to-clean carpet.
Detailed Answer:
Your detailed account, particularly the timeline (spraying near the box after neutering) and the location (on the cover, wall, and floor directly near the box), is the defining clue.
This is less about broad territorial conflict and more about a discrepancy between the physical act of elimination and the physical space provided.
The small urine volume and vertical aim are the hallmarks of spraying, even when done close to a litter box.
The enclosed box likely exacerbated the problem because it created a vertical surface (the cover or inside wall) for him to mark, while also being too cramped for a comfortable posture.
Your attempt to introduce a second box was sound in theory (the 1+1 rule), but the cat may have instantly rejected it due to differences in litter type, cleanliness, or location, leading to full-blown elimination outside the box as an expression of distress.
The most urgent and cost-saving fix, particularly before moving to carpet, is a complete litter box overhaul.
Stop trying different locations and change the box itself.
Ditch the enclosed box.
Purchase a large, clear, uncovered plastic storage bin (at least 66 quarts / 62 liters or larger) and cut a simple U-shaped entrance on one of the short sides, leaving the long sides high (at least 12-14 inches / 30-35 cm).
This provides a spacious box for him to stand in a comfortable position, while the high walls capture any vertical spray, eliminating your cleaning problem on the floor and wall, thus saving you hundreds of dollars on professional carpet cleaning after your move.
To ensure a smooth transition to your new carpeted home and prevent the behavior from transferring to the new environment, you must actively manage his anxiety.
This is where the Cat Spray Stop by Susan Westinghouse guide is invaluable.
This guide provides a framework for recognizing and responding to his underlying anxieties (which are amplified by the stress of moving) and using his natural instincts for a calm environment.
Supplement this with Feliway Classic diffusers plugged into the main room of the new house, especially near his established territory and any doorways.
The constant release of calming pheromones will act as an invisible security blanket, directly countering the stress of a new, scent-rich environment, and will greatly reduce the likelihood of him using his own scent (spraying) to feel secure.
Upon moving, confine him temporarily to a single, small “sanctuary room” (like a bathroom or spare room with hard flooring) with his redesigned, high-sided litter box for the first few days.
Once he is settled, introduce him gradually to the rest of the house, allowing his scent-marking (cheek rubbing) to calmly establish his new territory before the stress of the new carpet environment causes a relapse into spraying.
The combined approach of correcting the physical issue (the box) and addressing the anxiety (Feliway and behavioral modification) is the most robust and financially sensible path forward.
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